William Downie decided to start making natural wine in 2002 and has worked every single day since then to do it.

"The only way you can make natural wine in my world, is to buy a bit of dirt and plant a vineyard from scratch, because you can’t buy one that’s set up properly here in Australia. You learn how to farm it properly, to work it with a horse.

Then you learn how to work in a winery properly – you need to understand the biology of grapes, we don’t measure Baumé or pH, we just look at cells under a microscope. You need to know how to do nothing in the winery and have a predictable outcome, and that’s been my whole working life."